September 21, 2026
Milan was a Siri of Unfortunate Events … Unfortunately!
Milan, Italy
If you are looking for the grungy 90’s, you will love Milan. It is graffiti, closed garage doors (of businesses that may or may not be in business), lots of young adults smoking and wearing all black (and looking malnourished), and tons of tourists. We were among them. The redeeming factor was our hotel – it was outstanding. It was in the Navigli neighborhood right by the grand canal. Its name is Magna Pars and it was a former perfume factory that still has a perfume lab.
I really thought we would like Milan – I told Mia good shopping would be there. I said it would be modern and sleek. We could seek the sleek skyline in the distance from the Duomo, but nothing took us in that direction. We were planted in the midst of the city in the Navigli neighborhood. We rode the tram back and forth on our Duomo day. Transit was no problem. Otherwise we stayed in our neighborhood and got to know the local alleys, backstreets, bridges (there are only two – don’t miss yours or you go on a really long walk), and quirks. One highlight was the wonderful African man who set up a bar-cart on a bridge that unfolded on top of his bicycle with handmade cocktails and mocktails, including atmosphere with incense, two elephant wall hangings, and handmade vests with African fabric that you could purchase. He was high class and we were happy to pause for drinks and some conversation. We also found bbq along the canal – a restaurant called Brisket. Yep! We ate there – obviously. As major meat-eaters, it has been a different reality in Italy thus far. They know prosciutto and cured meats. They do not really know other cuts of meat.
We did like touring the Milan Cathedral and seeing the spectacle of the fancy Galleria. Our tickets were at 9am. After 10am, it was crowded and overwhelming and we really couldn’t even find stores to shop at – it is inaccessible in every way. The graffiti tells you that. The closed-up garage door storefronts tell you that. The people with no interaction whatsoever tell you that.
On the final train out, riding to the train station with all of our luggage, I commented to the family that we were going to the opposite place next – a small island. I was so glad for the break in energy and urban environment.
And then my phone was stolen – literally at the train station stop.
Not. Even. Kidding.
I had it in an open pocket of my overalls. A guy fell over into me (dropping his airpods) and swiped it before I noticed. I said the natural thing to say when someone suddenly falls – are you ok? And then I quickly moved off the train with the family and our 10 bags. Of course this is all very orchestrated and on purpose. He had been stalking me for several stops, I’m sure. You can assume people with suitcases are exiting at the train station. You get them at the last minute because they are certainly not paying attention to anything other than getting off the train with their bags. And kids. He was dressed very nicely in khakis and a blue sweater – a young professional (phone thief).
I walked up the steps and felt nothing in my pocket. I stopped the family. I said, “my phone!” And I circled back for a look on the platform … and then I realized everything that had just happened.
Absolutely skip over Milan, in my opinion.
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